I was trying to escape a heavy rainstorm near the equator when I found a small bakery in a fishing village on Principe. The bakery had a big clay oven with flames moving inside it. It was interesting to watch.
I was lucky to arrive just as the first batch of the day came out. I tore into the hot dough and enjoyed a simple pleasure that people have loved for hundreds of years.
This basic moment of sharing a meal really captures the quiet pleasures of this distant island in the Gulf of Guinea.
Together with Sao Tome it forms one of West Africa’s smallest nations. The island is more peaceful and laid back than the mainland. It feels like a Caribbean getaway with beautiful untouched beaches that are just as impressive.
Yet Principe remains largely undiscovered unlike popular winter sun destinations.
The quiet main town of Santo António has no big chain stores or advertising signs and just a handful of simple shops.
The Portuguese built these structures during their colonial rule when the islands functioned as a trading center for enslaved people. Over time the jungle has grown over and taken back the abandoned ruins of old sugar cane and cocoa plantations.
Local residents have made an admirable decision to turn down palm oil farming projects and focus on ecotourism instead. They have been guided by HBD a pioneering sustainable tourism company that manages three properties on Principe and recently bought the only other operating hotel on the island.
At first he saw Principe as a chance to buy a private island. Then he understood that the local people who protect the wild landscape would gain from tourism. He wanted to create jobs by welcoming visitors from around the world while keeping the natural beauty intact. Located on an isolated peninsula at the island’s northern tip sits Bom Bom. This former fishing lodge became the first hotel to open. The simple collection of bungalows features two beachfronts for watching both sunset and sunrise. Over time it has gained an unexpected cult following. After closing for three years during the pandemic it has recently reopened. I am among the first guests to arrive.
Mapped: Principe
At 6am the sun is already up as I walk along the empty beach. Boys in wooden pirogue boats appear as dark shapes far out on the water. Western reef herons search for food along the shore while brightly colored malachite kingfishers bring splashes of color to the thick green forest that covers most of the island. But even their bright turquoise wings cannot match the deep jade colors of an ocean so clear that I can see fifteen meters down to the bottom. Although Bom Bom has added some new features including a recently opened restaurant & a beach bar that is planned, development is still pleasantly slow. Even getting here takes effort because it requires a flight through Lisbon and Sao Tome. But the distance & difficulty help to keep this timeless paradise protected. Here are five reasons why the journey is worthwhile:
Untouched rainforests – In 2012 the entire island and its smaller islands were named a UNESCO World Biosphere thanks partly to HBD and local community members. More than half of the mountainous volcanic island is a protected natural park that contains many species found nowhere else in a rainforest believed to be 31 million years old.
Abundant marine life – The waters around the island are full of sea creatures. Humpback whales appear between July and October while five types of turtles including loggerhead olive ridley, green, hawksbill and leatherback nest on the beaches from November to March.
Excellent chocolate – During Portuguese rule a cocoa industry flourished on the island. HBD has brought back production on a small scale at Roca Sundy, a historic plantation that visitors can tour. A small shop sells food and cosmetic products.
Great hiking – Beyond the beach the mountainous interior offers good hiking trails. One popular route goes to the top of Pico do Papagaio or Parrot Peak which is one of several phonolitic towers.
A tourism model – HBD is launching a Natural Dividend project that will give money to islanders for their work protecting ecosystems and biodiversity. Mark Shuttleworth hopes this model can eventually be used across Africa.
How to do it
Rainbow Tours hosted Sarah Marshall for this article. Rainbow Tours offers a stay at Bom Bom as part of a nine-night trip to Sao Tome and Principe. The package starts from £3550 per person based on two people sharing. This price includes half-board accommodation and flights. Visit rainbowtours.co.uk for more information.
